Compositions and methods for controlling deposition of water-insoluble

ABSTRACT

A composition useful in a delivery system for water-insoluble ingredient(s) containing at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the phospholipid; and at least one cationic polymer, wherein the cationic polymer functions to control the amount of water-insoluble ingredient(s) deposited on keratinous substances. A method for treating keratinous substances with the compositions and delivery systems is also disclosed. In addition, the amount of water-insoluble ingredient(s) to be deposited can be controlled by varying the amount of the phospholipid, the nonionic surfactant, or both.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to compositions and deliverysystems based on a combination of organic phospholipids capable offorming bilayers in aqueous solution; amphoteric surfactants; nonionicsurfactants; and cationic polymers, wherein the combination of theseingredients allows water-insoluble ingredients to be incorporated intoaqueous solutions. The deposition of the water-insoluble ingredients onthe keratinous substances can be controlled by varying the amounts ofcertain of the above components.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Organic phospholipids play an important role in the cosmetics andpharmaceutical industries because of their outstanding physiologicalproperties, such as, for example, emulsifying, softening, andanti-oxidant effects. When hydrolyzed, organic phospholipids yieldphosphoric acid, an alcohol, a fatty acid, and a nitrogenous base. Mostphospholipids are amphipathic, i.e., have polar “heads” and non-polar“tails.” As a result, most phospholipids tend to arrange spontaneouslyinto a bilayer when suspended in an aqueous environment, with the polarheads contacting the water and the non-polar tails contacting eachother. Most naturally occurring phospholipids prefer to form vesicularbilayers in water solutions. In such a bilayer vesicle, no non-polarpart of the phospholipid has any contact with the water solution.

[0003] Because of their non-polar portions, phospholipids typically arewater-insoluble and incompatible with many water soluble anioniccompounds, such as anionic surfactants. While they can be solubilized inwater at low levels by a range of surfactants, this is often not easilyaccomplished.

[0004] Instead, solubilization has been accomplished conventionallyusing specific solubilizing agents in aqueous alcoholic solutions. Forexample, U.S. Pat. No. 4,874,553 to Hager et al. discusses methods ofrendering phospholipid mixtures water-soluble or water-dispersible byusing certain amine compounds as solubilizing agents. U.S. Pat. No.4,174,296 to Kass describes a method of improving the solubility ofphospholipid compounds in water, in particular lecithin compounds, bymixing lecithin with specific single solubilizing agents, includingamphoteric and anionic surfactants. These methods require alcohol forcosolubilization. Alcohol solutions have the drawback of disrupting anybilayer formation by altering the solution such that the alcoholfunctions as a secondary solvent.

[0005] Lecithins and other phospholipids have been used in thepharmaceutical industry to formulate carriers for water-insoluble drugs.For instance, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,173,303 to Lau et al., water-insolublematerial is encapsulated by vesicles composed of phospholipids such aslecithin. I. Ribosa et al., in “Physico-chemical modifications ofliposome structures through interaction with surfactants,” Int'l Journalof Cosmetic Science 14:131-149 (1992), also discuss solubilization ofphospholipids via the interaction of liposomes with surfactants. Lau andRibosa, however, investigated only dilute solutions of pure liposomes.

[0006] Despite difficulties in solubilization, certain organicphospholipids, such as lecithin, can advantageously give hair and skin asoft, moisturized feel because they have a strong affinity for thehydrophobic surface of the hair and skin. In addition, thesephospholipids are toxicologically safe. It would thus be desirable forcosmetic and pharmaceutical applications to provide delivery systemsthat include such organic phospholipids as a carrier for otherlipophilic ingredients, without the need for alcohols and other similarsolvents.

[0007] In addition to solubilizing lipophilic ingredients such as oils,vitamins, and ceramides in aqueous systems, it would be desirable tosolubilize other water-insoluble ingredients, such as unneutralized orpartially neutralized polymers, resins, or latexes, in aqueous deliverysystems. U.S. Pat. No. 5,391,368 to Gerstein teaches solubilization of ahair-styling polymer in a composition comprising an anionic surfactantand an amphoteric surfactant. According to Gerstein, it is theamphoteric surfactant which dissolves the water-insoluble stylingpolymer because the polymer is not soluble in the anionic surfactantalone.

[0008] Gerstein presents some problems, however. Many hair care and hairsetting products are formulated at acidic pH because of a desire forsuch products to be compatible with the pH of the scalp and hairsurface. Gerstein does not disclose a pH at which its system isformulated, but if the Gerstein system is acidified, the polymer willprecipitate out of solution. In addition, the Gerstein system does notcarry and there is no suggestion that it could carry any additionallipophilic ingredients in its mixture of anionic surfactant, amphotericsurfactant, and styling polymer. Further, Gerstein does not describe theincorporation of its styling polymer into any products other than thedisclosed styling shampoo, nor does Gerstein suggest that suchincorporation would be possible.

[0009] Thus, there remains a need for an aqueous delivery system thatcan solubilize water-insoluble materials in such a manner that they willnot precipitate out of solution upon acidification, where the amount ofdeposition of water-insoluble material can be controlled, and where thesystem could carry other ingredients in addition to the water-insolubleingredient. For example, it would be beneficial to have a system whichincorporates water-insoluble materials into compositions containingother ingredients, such as dyeing and permanent wave compositions. Thepresent invention provides a solution to these problems.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0010] In order to achieve these and other advantages, the presentinvention is drawn to a composition made up of at least one organicphospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution, at leastone amphoteric surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant, and atleast one cationic polymer. The amphoteric and nonionic surfactants areeach present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amountof the organic phospholipid.

[0011] In another embodiment, the present invention relates to anaqueous delivery system for water-insoluble materials. As definedherein, “water-insoluble” means one which is insoluble in water butwhich can be solubilized in accordance with the present invention. Thedelivery (or “carrier”) system includes at least one organicphospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution, at leastone amphoteric surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant, at leastone cationic polymer, at least one water-insoluble ingredient, and anaqueous phase. The amphoteric and nonionic surfactants are each presentin an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of theorganic phospholipid. The organic phospholipid, the amphotericsurfactant, and the nonionic surfactant are present in a combined amountsufficient to allow the lipophilic ingredient to be incorporated intothe delivery system.

[0012] The present invention is also drawn to a method for treating atleast one keratinous substance by preparing an aqueous solutioncomprising at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayersin aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant present in anamount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of said at leastone phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amountby weight equal to or greater than the amount of said at least onephospholipid; at least one cationic polymer; and at least onewater-insoluble ingredient. The phospholipid and the two surfactants arepresent in a combined amount sufficient to allow the water-insolubleingredient to be incorporated into said aqueous solution. The aqueoussolution is then applied to the keratinous substance.

[0013] Finally, the present invention relates to methods for controllingthe deposition of a water-insoluble ingredient on at least onekeratinous substance, by preparing an aqueous solution comprising atleast one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueoussolution; at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount byweight equal to or greater than the amount of said at least onephospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amount byweight equal to or greater than the amount of said at least onephospholipid; and at least one water-insoluble ingredient. Thephospholipid and the two surfactants are present in a combined amountsufficient to allow the water-insoluble ingredient to be incorporatedinto said aqueous solution. In preparing the aqueous solution, theamount of the organic phospholipid, the amount of the nonionicsurfactant, or both, are adjusted in order to control the amount ofdeposition of the water-insoluble ingredient on the keratinoussubstance. Cationic polymer(s) are optionally included in the aqueoussolution, which is then applied to the keratinous substance.

[0014] Reference will now be made in detail to the presently preferredembodiment(s) of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0015] Advantageously, the present invention allows otherwisewater-insoluble materials or ingredients to be solubilized in an aqueoussolution. No alcohol is required for cosolubilization, and there is noneed for liposome preparation. Further, when the water evaporates, theresidue left behind includes the water-insoluble material and/or thephospholipid. Further, the invention allows for control in the amount ofmaterial to be deposited.

[0016] The composition of the invention is also easy to formulate andcan be gentle on the hair, skin, or eyelashes when the surfactants usedare mild. Unlike the attempted solubilization of phospholipids in theprior art, the present invention requires the presence of at least oneamphoteric surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant in theconcentrated solutions of phospholipid.

[0017] The compositions and delivery systems of the present inventioncan readily deposit the organic phospholipid/water-insoluble substanceson the hair, skin, and eyelashes, and, because of their inherentinsolubility, can resist being washed off with water. Further, by thepresence of the cationic polymer, and/or by adjusting the amount of theorganic phospholipid, the nonionic surfactant, or both, the amount ofwater-insoluble ingredients deposited can be controlled. Accordingly,these compositions and delivery systems can be used in hair shampoos,conditioners, hair dyeing compositions, including oxidative dyes andbleaches, permanent waving compositions, curl relaxing compositions,hair setting compositions, bath and body products, sunscreens, orcosmetics such as mascaras and foundations.

[0018] These systems can also be used to deliver active water-insolublepharmaceutical ingredients, particularly in topical applications. Suchsystems could further help protect against oxidation and rancidity byprotecting sensitive ingredients in pharmaceuticals or foods.

[0019] Additionally, the “load” carried by these systems can be quitehigh, a benefit that inures both to the user and to the manufacturer inan economic sense. Load is defined as the weight of added hydrophobe(water-insoluble material) divided by the weight of the phospholipidexpressed as a percentage. Thus, 1 g of hydrophobe in a composition with5 g phospholipid is a ⅕ or 20% load. In the art, 50% is considered ahigh load and can be achieved with certain hydrophobes and surfactantcombinations.

[0020] Without being bound to a particular theory, the inventors believethat in the composition of the present invention, an organizedstructure, likely a laminar gel, is formed between the organicphospholipid and the nonionic surfactant and is solubilized by theamphoteric surfactant. The organized structure can incorporate otherwater-insoluble materials or hydrophobes. In aqueous systems, thestructure remains organized, as evidenced by the clarity of thesolution, exhibiting a slight Tyndall light scattering effect, and, whenconcentrated, showing lamellar anisotropic structures under polarizedlight.

[0021] In one embodiment, therefore, the invention is drawn to acomposition comprising at least one organic phospholipid capable offorming bilayers in aqueous solution, at least one amphotericsurfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant, and at least one cationicpolymer, where the amphoteric and nonionic surfactants are each presentin an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of thephospholipid.

[0022] With respect to the ingredients of the inventive composition, thepreferred organic phospholipids capable of forming bilayers in aqueoussolution are lecithins. Lecithins are mixtures of phospholipids, i.e.,of diglycerides of fatty acids linked to an ester of phosphoric acid.Preferably, lecithins are diglycerides of stearic, palmitic, and oleicacids linked to the choline ester of phosphoric acid. Lecithin isusually defined either as pure phosphatidyl cholines or as crudemixtures of phospholipids which include phosphatidyl choline,phosphatidyl serine, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl inositol,other phospholipids, and a variety of other compounds such as fattyacids, triglycerides, sterols, carbohydrates, and glycolipids.

[0023] The lecithin used in the present invention may be present in theform of a liquid, powder, or granules. Lecithins useful in the inventioninclude, but are not limited to, soy lecithin and hydroxylated lecithin.For example, ALCOLEC S is a fluid soy lecithin, ALCOLEC F 100 is apowder soy lecithin, and ALCOLEC Z3 is a hydroxylated lecithin, all ofwhich are available from the American Lecithin Company.

[0024] In the present invention, lecithin is preferably used in anamount greater than 0 to about 3% by weight relative to the total weightof the composition, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1% by weight.Since lecithin itself is not a pure raw material and may have freeglycerides, glycerin, fatty acids, and soaps, adjustments in this ratiomay need to be made, i.e., one source of lecithin may require differentratios of nonionic and amphoteric surfactants than another to achievemaximum clarity of solution. Preferably, the composition of theinvention forms a clear solution, though the purpose of the invention isachieved just as effectively with a slightly cloudy solution.

[0025] Other than lecithins, another group of phospholipids which may beuseful in the present invention are multifunctional biomimeticphospholipids. For example, the following multifunctional biomimeticphospholipids manufactured by Mona Industries may be useful:PHOSPHOLIPID PTC, PHOSPHOLIPID CDM, PHOSPHOLIPID SV, PHOSPHOLIPID GLA,and PHOSPHOLIPID EFA.

[0026] The amphoteric surfactants useful in the present inventioninclude, but are not limited to, betaines, sultaines, hydroxysultaines,alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphodipropionates, and imidazolines, orsalts thereof. It is recognized that other fatty acid condensates suchas those formed with amino acids, proteins, and the like are suitable.Cocamphodipropionate is particularly preferred, for example, MIRANOLC2M-SF Conc. (disodium cocamphodipropionate), in its salt-free form,available from Rhône-Poulenc. Also preferred is CROSULTAINE C-50(cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine), available from Croda.

[0027] The amphoteric surfactants are preferably present in thecomposition in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to about 9% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, theamphoteric surfactants are present in an amount ranging from about 0.15%to about 3% by weight. When, as discussed further infra, the compositionof the invention is used in a delivery system for a water-insolublepolymer or resin, the amphoteric surfactants are preferably present inthe composition in the same range. Other amphoteric surfactants usefulin the present invention include disodium wheatgermimido PEG-2sulfosuccinate, available under the trade name MACKANATE WGD fromMcintyre Group Ltd. and disodium soyamphodiacetate, available under thetrade name MACKAM 2S from Mcintyre Group Ltd.

[0028] The nonionic surfactants useful in the present invention arepreferably formed from a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, or a glyceridewith a C₈ to C₂₄ carbon chain, preferably a C₁₂ to C₁₈ carbon chain,more preferably a C₁₆ to C₁₈ carbon chain, derivatized to yield aHydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) of at least 10. HLB is understoodto mean the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilicgroup and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of thesurfactant. Such derivatives can be polymers such as ethoxylates,propoxylates, polyglucosides, polyglycerins, polylactates,polyglycolates, polysorbates, and others that would be apparent to oneof ordinary skill in the art. Such derivatives may also be mixedpolymers of the above, such as ethoxylate/propoxylate species, where thetotal HLB is preferably greater than or equal to 10. Preferably thenonionic surfactants contain ethoxylate in a molar content of from10-25, more preferably from 10-20 moles.

[0029] Nonionic surfactants may be selected from, but are not limitedto, the following: # of Cs Name Trade Name C-12 Laureth-23 BRIJ 35,available from 101 Surfactants C-16 Ceteth-10 BRIJ 56, available from101 Surfactants C-16 Ceteth-20 RRIJ 58, available from 101 SurfactantsC-16 IsoCeteth-20 ARLASOLVE 200, available from ICI Surfactants C-18Steareth-10 VOLPO S-10, available from Croda Chemicals Ltd. C-18Steareth-16 SOLULAN-16, available from Amerchol Corp. C-18 Steareth-20BRIJ 78, available from ICI Surfactants C-18 Steareth-25 SOLULAN-25,available from Amerchol Corp. C-18= Oleth-10 BRIJ 97, available from 101Surfactants C-18= Oleth-20 VOLPO-20, available from Croda Chemicals Ltd.

[0030] Alkyl polyglucose surfactants sold under the name PLANTAREN,available from Henkel, may also be used. The nonionic surfactant ispreferably present in an amount of greater than 0 to about 20% by weightrelative to the weight of the whole composition. More preferably, thenonionic surfactant is present in an amount of about 0.2% to about 5% byweight.

[0031] Cationic polymers useful in the present invention include, butare not limited to, polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16,polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32, and guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Preferred cationic polymers includePOLYMER JR-125 and POLYMER JR-400, hydroxyethyl cellulosic polymers(polyquaternium 10) available from AMERCHOL; JAGUAR C13-S, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, available from Meyhall; and MERQUAT100, a dimethyl dialkyl ammonium chloride (polyquaternium 6) availablefrom CALGON. The cationic polymer is preferably present in an amount ofabout 0.1% to about 5.0% relative to the total weight of the inventivecomposition.

[0032] In one preferred embodiment of the composition of the presentinvention, the organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers inaqueous solution, the amphoteric surfactant, and the nonionic surfactantare present in the composition such that the nonionic surfactant and theamphoteric surfactant are each present in an amount by weight greaterthan the amount of phospholipid. In a more preferred embodiment, theamount of phospholipid in the composition is kept fixed while theamounts of the amphoteric and nonionic surfactants are increased.Preferably, the phospholipid, amphoteric surfactant, and nonionicsurfactant are present in a combined amount sufficient to allow at leastone water-insoluble ingredient to be incorporated into an aqueoussolution.

[0033] In a still more preferred embodiment, calculating thephospholipid as present at a value of 1, the phospholipid, amphotericsurfactant and nonionic surfactant are preferably present in thecomposition in a ratio ranging from about 1:2:2 and above by weightrelative to the whole composition, i.e., where the amounts of thesurfactants can be increased independently of each other but the amountof phospholipid stays fixed. The ratio is considered to be “above” 1:2:2when the amount of either of the surfactants increases. When theinventive composition is used in a delivery system for a lipophilicmaterial, the composition also includes water, and the ratio preferablyranges from about 1:3:2 and above. When the inventive composition isused in a delivery system for a water-insoluble polymer or resin, theratio is preferably about 1:3:3 and above, and more preferably aboveabout 1:3:4. The loading capability for hydrophobes carried by thedelivery system of the present invention can be increased if the ratioof nonionic surfactant to phospholipid is minimized, with the bilayersstill being solubilized, because an excess of nonionic surfactant maydisrupt the organized structure.

[0034] In one preferred embodiment, the composition of the presentinvention comprises ALCOLEC S (soy lecithin), MIRANOL C2M-SF Conc.(disodium cocamphodipropionate, an amphoteric surfactant), ARLASOLVE 200(IsoCeteth-20, a nonionic surfactant) in a ratio of 5:15:10 (1:3:2) whena lipophilic water-insoluble ingredient is employed, and 5:15:20 (1:3:4)when a water-insoluble polymer, resin, or latex is employed, wherein theratios are calculated by weight relative to the whole composition. Ingeneral, the preferred compositions of the invention contain, inaddition to the cationic polymer, a lecithin (L), an amphotericsurfactant (A), and a nonionic surfactant (N), referred to as the “LAN.”Although lecithin is particularly preferred, the types of amphoteric andnonionic surfactants may vary.

[0035] When used as an ingredient in further formulations, the LAN iscompatible and generally gives clear solutions with anionic surfactantssuch as alkyl sulfates and ethoxylated alkyl sulfates. Other anionicsurfactants such as sulfosuccinates may also be used. Typically, LANcompositions can resist storage at 45° C. for three months or more,which would predict that they have a shelf life at room temperature ofat least three years.

[0036] In another aspect, the present invention relates to an aqueousdelivery or carrier system comprising at least one organic phospholipidcapable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution, at least one amphotericsurfactant present in an amount greater than or equal to the amount ofthe phospholipid, at least one nonionic surfactant preferably present inan amount greater than or equal to the amount of the phospholipid, atleast one cationic polymer, at least one water-insoluble ingredient, andan aqueous phase. The phospholipid, amphoteric surfactant, and nonionicsurfactant are present in a combined amount sufficient to allow thewater-insoluble ingredient(s) to be incorporated into or solubilized bythe aqueous system. The amount sufficient for solubilization may varydepending on the type of composition; for example, shampoo and mascaraformulations require a lower concentration of LAN than do conditioner,deep treatment, bleach, permanent wave, dye, and relaxant compositions.The cationic polymer acts to increase the deposition of both the LAN andits carried ingredient on their ultimate destination, preferably thehair, eyelashes, or skin.

[0037] Water-insoluble materials or ingredients useful in thecompositions or delivery systems of the present invention include, butare not limited to the following:

[0038] (1) Lipophilic “ingredients” or “materials” such as silicones,oil-soluble vitamins such as Vitamin E and Vitamin A, sunscreens,ceramides and natural oils: The lipophilic ingredients may be in theform of sunscreens, bacteriostats, moisturizers, colors, topicalpharmaceuticals and the like. Preferred lipophilic ingredients include:Vitamin E, Vitamin E Acetate, Vitamin A Palmitate, olive oil, mineraloil, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, octylmethoxy cinnamate, octylsalicylate, and silicones such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone, phenyltrimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, and laurylmethiconecopolyol. The lipophilic ingredients will, for example, moisturize orcondition the skin, hair, and/or eyelashes and leave behind no oilyfeel.

[0039] (2) Water-insoluble polymers, resins, and latexes which areunneutralized or partially neutralized, wherein the polymers and resinsinclude but are not limited to those containing carboxyl moieties, suchas acrylates and other carboxy polymers. Typically, water-insolublepolymers and resins have to be neutralized to about 90% of theircarboxyl moieties to make them water soluble for the purpose offormulating products in aqueous solution and for the purpose of makingproducts which have good non-build-up properties, i.e., can be easilywashed off the hair after use. However, when used with the compositionsof the present invention, little or no neutralization is needed todissolve these polymers/resins. In part, an unneutralized or partiallyneutralized water-insoluble polymer or resin is solubilized because itis neutralized by the amphoteric surfactant contained in the presentlyclaimed delivery system, but the amphoteric surfactant acting alone willnot solubilize the polymer or resin in water and allow the pH to beacidic. As discussed with reference to the Gerstein patent above, if thepolymer or resin is neutralized by the amphoteric surfactant alone, whenone attempts to acidify the solution to prepare a hair care compositionwith acidic pH, as is desirable, the carboxyl moieties of the polymer orresin become unneutralized and precipitation occurs. It is thecombination of the organic phospholipid, the amphoteric surfactant, andthe nonionic surfactant of the present invention which achieves thesolubility of the water-insoluble polymers or resins.

[0040] As for latexes, they generally have been used in cosmetics in anunneutralized form since they are used for their milky (insoluble)appearance. In the context of the present invention, however,water-insoluble latexes are neutralized to an alkaline pH and dissolve,producing a clear solution. To the best of the inventors' knowledge,neutralized latexes have not previously been used in cosmeticcompositions.

[0041] In the case of the non-neutralized or partially-neutralizedpolymers or resins, where such substances are applied to the hair orskin from an alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic system, their washabilityfrom the hair leaves a great deal to be desired. In contrast, where suchpolymers or resins are applied in a delivery system of the presentinvention, the polymers or resins can easily be rinsed off from the hair(no build-up) while providing strong hold for curls, if curls are whatis desired.

[0042] The following are examples of polymers that can be incorporatedinto the delivery system of the present invention. The list is notintended to be limiting:

[0043] AMPHOMER LV-71 from National Starch(octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer),

[0044] OMNIREZ-2000 from ISP (PVM/MA half ethyl ester copolymer),

[0045] RESYN 28-2930 from National Starch (Vinylacetate/crotonates/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer),

[0046] LUVIMER 100P from BASF (t-butyl acrylate/ethylacrylate/methacrylic acid), and

[0047] ULTRAHOLD STRONG from BASF (acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/t-butylacrylamide).

[0048] Unneutralized or partially neutralized water-insoluble latexeshave been used as film-formers in various applications. The followingare latexes that can be incorporated into the delivery system of thepresent invention:

[0049] AMERHOLD DR-25 from Amerchol (acrylic acid/methacrylicacid/acrylates/methacrylates),

[0050] LUVIMER 36D from BASF (ethyl acrylate/t-butylacrylate/methacrylic acid), and

[0051] ACUDYNE 258 from Rohm & Haas (acrylic acid/methacrylicacid/acrylates/methacrylates/hydroxy ester acrylates).

[0052] The aqueous phase of the inventive delivery system can containadditional ingredients such as anionic surfactants, organic salts,inorganic salts, proteins, hair dyes, water-soluble polymers, quaternaryammonium compounds, complex and simple carbohydrates, amino acids,preservatives and fragrances.

[0053] If the inventive system is to be used in concentrated form, i.e.,with about 5% by weight of the organic phospholipid and 1% of addedwater-insoluble ingredient, the composition preferably has a pH rangingfrom 4-12 for maximum stability and clarity. The more concentrated thesolution, the better the delivery.

[0054] If this blend is diluted with water or the blend is used as aningredient in another composition, then the pH has a broader range,i.e., preferably ranges from 2-12, and a wider variety of additives canbe included in the solution. When water is added to a concentrated LAN,it may appear to form a cloudy solution at first if a large amount ofwater is added at once. The LAN will eventually go into solution,however, and become clear or at least clearer. The time to cleardecreases as the LAN ratio increases. Once the organized structure ofthe LAN forms, the addition of more water does not affect clarity. Thesedilute blends are still very effective in delivering water-insolubleingredients. The blends can be freeze-dried to hygroscopic solids thatredissolve into water. Encapsulation of such solids so that they do notpick up and retain excess moisture is also contemplated. Suchencapsulated solids can have desirable storage properties and would beeasy to dissolve into water at various dilutions. Understandably, theneed for dilution varies depending on the water-insouble material to beemployed.

[0055] In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a methodfor treating at least one keratinous substance by preparing an aqueoussolution comprising at least one organic phospholipid capable of formingbilayers in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant presentin an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of said atleast one phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant present in anamount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of said at leastone phospholipid; at least one cationic polymer; and at least onewater-insoluble ingredient, wherein the phospholipid, amphotericsurfactant, and nonionic surfactant are present in a combined amountsufficient to allow the water-insoluble ingredient to be incorporatedinto the aqueous solution; and applying the aqueous solution to thekeratinous substance. The keratinous substance is preferably hair, skin,or eyelashes. The type of treatment envisioned by the claimed method mayinclude shampooing, conditioning, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving,relaxing, setting, moisturizing, and making-up the hair, skin, oreyelashes.

[0056] Another embodiment of the present invention is drawn to a processfor preparing the aqueous system of the present invention. This processcomprises: (a) combining the at least one organic phospholipid,amphoteric surfactant, and nonionic surfactant as described above toobtain a mixture, (b) heating the mixture obtained in step (a), and (c)adding an aqueous solution to the heated mixture to obtain the desiredcarrier system. Water-insoluble ingredients may be added in step (a).The cationic polymer may be added in Step (c) in the aqueous solution.Preferably the carrier system obtained can carry a high load (i.e., 50%is considered a high load) of the organic phospholipid/water-insolubleingredient. The mixture is preferably heated at a temperature of 65° C.to 85° C., depending on the melting points of the solid surfactants.

[0057] More specifically, the preparation of the carrier system of thepresent invention may be carried out as follows. Lecithin (L) isdispersed in water. The water-insoluble material is combined withnonionic surfactant(s) (N) at appropriate ratios and added to thelecithin/water dispersion. An amphoteric surfactant (A) is added and themixture is heated, preferably to a temperature of from 75° C. to 85° C.The combination of these ingredients results in a solution which isclear to slightly hazy and is referred to as the “LAN,” which can thenbe used as a “raw material” to make finished products. The cationicpolymer is added in aqueous solution during the formulation of finishedproducts.

[0058] Alternatively, lecithin, amphoteric surfactant(s) and nonionicsurfactant(s) can be weighed to appropriate ratios and heated to 70° C.with stirring. A sWater is then added at the same temperature. Anotheralternative method of preparation comprises adding the water-insolubleingredient with mixing after solutions have cooled. This lastalternative method helps protect heat-sensitive water-insolubleingredients.

[0059] The resulting compositions may vary from clear to slightly hazyand are infinitely dilutable with water. The slight haze can be overcomeby adjusting the ratio of lecithin to the surfactants, adjusting pH, orreducing concentrations of water-insoluble ingredients.

[0060] In yet another aspect, the present invention relates to methodsfor controlling the deposition of a water-insoluble ingredient on atleast one keratinous substance by preparing an aqueous solutioncomprising at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayersin aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant present in anamount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of said at leastone phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amountby weight equal to or greater than the amount of said at least onephospholipid; and at least one water-insoluble ingredient. Thephospholipid and the two surfactants are present in a combined amountsufficient to allow the water-insoluble ingredient(s) to be incorporatedinto said aqueous solution. In preparing the aqueous solution, theamount of the organic phospholipid, the amount of the nonionicsurfactant, or both, are adjusted in order to control the amount ofdeposition of the water-insoluble ingredient on the keratinoussubstance. Cationic polymer(s) are optionally included in the aqueoussolution, which is then applied to the keratinous substance. While, asdiscussed supra, addition of cationic polymer(s) into this systemincreases the deposition of the water-insoluble ingredient(s), thedeposition can also be effectively controlled by varying the quantitiesof L, N, or both in the LAN system, with or without the cationicpolymer.

[0061] By varying the amount of the nonionic surfactant component in theLAN/water-insoluble ingredient system, the amount of the water-insolubleingredient deposited on hair can be controlled. Since, as discussedabove, the nonionic surfactant is necessary to incorporate thewater-insoluble ingredient(s) into the LAN system, a high quantity ofnonionic surfactant in a LAN solution results in the water-insolubleingredient(s) having a higher tendency to stay in the LAN solution. Inother words, the less nonionic surfactant present in the LAN solution,the easier it is for the water-insoluble ingredient(s) to come out ofsolution and thus be deposited on, e.g., hair. Therefore, the amount ofthe LAN/water-insoluble ingredient(s) deposited on hair, skin, oreyelashes can be controlled by the quantity of the nonionic surfactantin the LAN system.

[0062] By adjusting the amount of the organic phospholipid, which ispreferably lecithin, in the LAN system, the deposition ofwater-insoluble ingredients on various hair types can be controlled.Since lecithin is lipophilic, it is more attracted to the hydrophobicsurface of normal hair (i.e., hair with less damage) than it is to thehydrohilic surface of bleached hair (considered to be “damaged” hair).In other words, higher amounts of lecithin favor the deposition oflipophiles on normal hair and lower lecithin amounts favor deposition ondamaged hair.

[0063] Accordingly, by adjusting the amounts of both the lecithin andthe nonionic surfactant in the LAN system, one can control how much ofthe water-insoluble ingredient(s) is deposited on which hair types.

[0064] As mentioned previously, the composition and delivery system ofthe present invention can be used as an ingredient itself in, forexample, shampoos, conditioners (rinse-off and leave-in), deeptreatments for hair, body washes, bath gels, hair dyeing compositions,permanent wave formulations, relaxers, make-up preparations,particularly mascara and foundation, and skin creams or lotions. Whenthe inventive compositions or delivery systems are used as shampoos, atleast one anionic surfactant may also be included in the shampooformulation, as it is a typical shampoo ingredient.

[0065] With respect to hair products, the system of the presentinvention can be used to formulate hair products, e.g., for normal hair,color-treated hair, dry hair, fine hair, and damaged hair. For each typeof hair, the LAN can be used to create a regimen comprising shampoo,conditioner, and deep treatment, (i.e., deep conditioner). Additionalnonionic, amphoteric, and also anionic surfactants can be added to theLAN. In general, the concentration of the LAN is increased within eachregimen from shampoo to conditioner to deep treatment. Thus, the deeptreatment formulations have the most concentrated hydrophobe-carryingLAN.

[0066] The LAN systems of the invention can be further associated, inthe hair products described above, with proteins including hydrolyzedsoy protein, lauryidimonium hydrolyzed soy protein (cationic Soyaprotein) and wheat amino acids. The proteins could also include corn,wheat, milk, or silk proteins, collagens, keratins, or others.Furthermore, taurine and arginine hydrochloride may be associatedtherein to maximize protein binding to the hair. Cationic proteins orproteins in general may be stabilizers for the LAN and, like thecationic polymers discussed above, enhance its delivery by changing thecharge on the surface of the LAN structure. The skin and the hairattract cationic ingredients, and proteins are generally substantive tothese tissues.

[0067] In conditioning emulsions, nonionic emulsifiers such as glycerylstearate and PEG-100 stearate can be used, and the LAN may be treated asa water-insoluble, particularly a lipophilic, ingredient itself.

[0068] Other ingredients in the LAN hair care compositions may includeisoparaffins, sodium chloride, propylene glycol, preservatives such asphenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, and propylparaben, pHadjusters such as phosphoric acid, humectants such as trehalose, andemollients such as octyldodecanol. Many other examples of materials fromthe classes listed above would be readily known to one of ordinary skillin the art.

[0069] Further, shampoos, conditioners, and deep treatments within thescope of the present invention may be used on hair which has beentreated, e.g., with color (dye or bleach) or chemicals (permanent waveor straightening), or which is dry or fine and show significantsubstantivity for the hair.

[0070] The invention will be further clarified by the followingexamples, which are intended to be illustrative of the invention, butnot limiting thereof.

EXAMPLES Example 1 LAN as Co-precipitant in Shampoo

[0071] Cationic species are known to form a complex with anionicsurfactants wherein the resulting solids precipitate out of the solutionupon addition of water. When a LAN composition was incorporated in acationic polymer-anionic surfactant system (e.g., an anionic shampoocontaining cationic conditioning agents), it also precipitated alongwith the cationic-anionic complex. As shown in Table 1, a clear shampoocontaining LAN, a cationic polymer (POLYMER JR 125), and an anionicsurfactant (SLES) was prepared and was found to give a precipitate upondilution with water. The precipitate was obtained by centrifugation; theamount of the solid was determined gravimetrically and its phosphoruscontent (evidence of lecithin) was analyzed by atomic absorption. Asecond shampoo was prepared which contained the same ingredients but noLAN. Analysis of the two shampoos showed that when LAN was present, moreprecipitate with a higher phosphorus content was obtained, an indicationthat the precipitate contains a high amount of LAN. See results in Table1 below. TABLE 1 SOLUTION 1 SOLUTION 2 POLYMER JR-125  0.15 g  0.15 gSLES (anionic surfactant)  1.5 g  1.5 g LAN* (1:3:4)  3.0 g — Water13.65 g 16.65 g Precipitate  0.30 g  0.05 g Phosphorus Content  0.36%trace

Example 2 Increasing the Deposition of LAN/Water-Insoluble Ingredientson Hair

[0072] In Example 1, it was shown that LAN precipitated in an anionicsystem containing cationic polymers. In a similar system additionallycontaining a water-insoluble ingredient, the presence of the cationicpolymers increased the deposition of LAN and its carried ingredients onhair. Example 1 was repeated with LAN (1:3:4) containing 0.5% silicone(Dow Corning 200) as the water-insoluble ingredient. The results (seeTable 2 below) showed that silicone was also precipitated along with theLANISLES/Polymer JR complex: TABLE 2 SOLUTION 1 SOLUTION 2 POLYMERJR-125  0.15 g  0.15 g SLES (anionic surfactant)  1.5 g  1.5 g LAN*(1:3:4)/Silicone  3.0 g — Water 13.65 g 16.65 g Precipitate  0.30 g 0.08 g Silicone (Si) Content  2.90%  0.70%

[0073] The above results show that when a LAN composition containing acationic polymer and carrying a water-insoluble ingredient is preparedas a shampoo, upon rinsing, the lecithin along with the water-insolubleingredient (in this example, silicone) will precipitate and deposit onhair.

Example 3 Increasing the Deposit of LAN/water Insoluble Ingredients inthe Presence of Cationic Polymer in Shampoo Systems

[0074] The following shampoos were adopted from Example 2 of U.S. Pat.No. 3,996,146, to which 10 g of a solution containing LAN (5 g ALCOLECS:15 g MIRANOL C2M-SF Conc.:20 g ARLASOLVE 200), 1 g OctylmethoxyCinnamate (OMC, a sunscreen), and 59 g water was added: TABLE 3 Nonyl-MER- Sulfo- phenol QUAT LAN/ succinate Betaine ethoxylate 100 OMC WaterShampoo 1 35 g 16 g 5 g 0.2 g — 43.8 g Shampoo 2 35 g 16 g 5 g 0.2 g 10g 33.8 g Shampoo 3 35 g 16 g 5 g — 10 g 34.0 g

[0075] Shampoo 1 was a control that contained the cationic polymer(MERQUAT 100) but no LAN/OMC. Shampoo 2 contained the cationic polymerand the LAN/OMC. Shampoo 3 contained only the LAN/OMC and not thecationic polymer. Hair was treated with the above shampoos for 3minutes, then rinsed for 30 seconds. The hair was shampooed and rinsedan additional 4 times (total shampoo: 5 times). The hair was extractedwith alcohol and the extracted OMC determined by UV-Vis. The amount ofOMC found on the tested hair, after adjusting from the control, wasfound to be 3 times higher when the cationic polymer was present. SeeTable 4 below: TABLE 4 TREATMENT μg OMC/g Hair Shampoo 2: containingLAN/OMC and MERQUAT 100 29.40 Shampoo 3: containing LAN/OMC and noMERQUAT  9.27 100

Example 4 Increasing the Deposit of LAN/water Insoluble Ingredients inthe Presence of Cationic Polymer in Aqueous Systems

[0076] Three solutions containing aqueous non-shampoo systems wereprepared.

[0077] The acqueous systems further contained LAN/OMC as defined inExample 3 and the cationic polymer (POLYMER JR 400). Solution 1contained the cationic polymer and the LAN/OMC complex as defined inExample 3. Solution 2 contained the LAN/OMC only. Solution 3 containedLAN only. The composition of each solution is shown below in Table 5.TABLE 5 SOLUTION 1 SOLUTION 2 SOLUTION 3 POLYMER JR-400 0.5 — — LAN/OMC10 10 — LAN — — 10 Water 89.5 90 90

[0078] Solution 3, containing LAN without the sunscreen or the cationicpolymer, acted as a control.

[0079] Following the same treatment and measurement described above inExample 3, it was found that the amount of sunscreen deposited on thehair, after adjusting for the control, increased in the presence of thecationic polymer. See Table 6: TABLE 6 TREATMENT μg OMC/g Hair Solution1: containing LAN/OMC and POLYMER 88.46 JR-400 Solution 2: containingLAN/OMC and no POLYMER 76.85 JR-400

Example 5 Controlling Deposit of LAN/Water-Insoluble Ingredients on Hairby Adjusting the Amount of L and/or N

[0080] By adjusting the quantity of the L and the N in the LAN, one cancontrol the deposit of the water-insoluble ingredients in LAN systems intwo ways: the quantity of lipophilic ingredients deposited on hair andalso the deposition as it is related to varying hair types.

[0081] A. Regulation of the amount of deposited water-insolubleingredients using the N component

[0082] The following LAN solutions (low N and high N) containing 0.1%Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate (OMC) as the water-insoluble ingredient wereprepared: TABLE 7 ARLA- ALCOLEC MIRANOL SOLVE OMC WATER SOLUTION 1 0.050.15 0.20 0.1 99.05 SOLUTION 2 0.05 0.15 0.40 0.1 98.85

[0083] Two types of hair (normal brown and bleached) were treated withthese solutions for 1 minute at room temperature then rinsed with warmwater for 30 seconds and blow-dried. The treatment was repeated for atotal of 5 times. The hair was extracted with alcohol and the amount ofextracted OMC determined by UV-Vis. As shown below, the amounts of OMCfound on both hair types were controlled by the quantity of N in the LANsystem—lower deposit at high N and higher deposit at low N. TABLE 8Treatment μg OMC/g Hair Normal Hair Solution 1 (low N) 90.96 Solution 2(high N) 83.99 Bleached Hair Solution 1 (low N) 106.05  Solution 2 (highN) 67.73

[0084] As discussed above, addition of cationic species into this systemincreases the deposition of the lipophilic ingredients on hair, thisdeposition is still effectively controlled by the quantity of N in theLAN system. Hair was treated as described above with the followingsolutions: TABLE 9 ALCO- MIR- ARLA- POLYMER LEC ANOL SOLVE OMC JR-400WATER SOLU- 0.05 0.15 0.20 0.1 0.1 99.4 TION A SOLU- 0.05 0.15 0.40 0.10.1 98.2 TION B SOLU- 0.05 0.15 0.20 0.1 — 99.5 TION C SOLU- 0.05 0.150.40 0.1 — 99.3 TION D

[0085] After treatment, the amount of OMC extracted from hair treatedwith solutions containing low N and the cationic polymer increased inthe presence of the cationic polymer. Thus, the deposition is controlledby the N in both cases, as shown below in Table 10: TABLE 10 Treatmentμg OMC/g Hair Normal Hair Solution A (low N- 104.89  with cationicpolymer) Solution B (high N- 89.79 with cationic polymer) Solution C(low N- 94.44 w/o cationic polymer) Solution D (high N- 86.64 w/ocationic polymer) Bleached Hair Solution A (low N- 123.48  with cationicpolymer) Solution B (high N-) 96.77 with cationic polymer) Solution C(low N- 117.67  w/o cationic polymer) Solution D (high N- 77.02 w/ocationic polymer)

[0086] B. Regulation of deposition on different hair types using Lcomponent

[0087] The following shampoos were adopted from Example 2 of U.S. Pat.No. 3,996,146, to which a solution containing LAN/0.1% OMC was added:TABLE 11 Shampoo A Shampoo B Sulfosuccinate 35.0 35.0 Betaine 16.0 16.0Nonylphenol 5.0 5.0 ethoxylate MERQUAT 100 0.2 0.2 ALCOLEC 0.5 0.05MIRANOL 0.15 0.15 ARLASOLVE 0.2 0.2 OMC 0.1 0.1 Water 42.85 43.3

[0088] Two types of hair (normal brown and bleached) were treated withthese shampoos for 1 minute at room temperature, then rinsed with warmwater for 30 seconds and blow dried. The treatment was repeated for atotal of 5 times. The hair was extracted with alcohol and the amount ofextracted OMC determined by UV-Vis. As shown in Table 12, the amounts ofOMC found on both hair types were controlled by the quantity of thelecithin in the LAN system—low L increased the deposition of lipophilicingredients on damaged hair and high L increased the deposition onnormal hair. TABLE 12 Treatment μg OMC/g Hair Normal Hair Shampoo A(high L) 26.26 Shampoo B (low L) 24.4 Bleached Hair Shampoo A (high L)0.72 Shampoo B (low L) 0.95

[0089] C. Regulation of the deposition using both L and N components

[0090] To depict this concept, the inventors devised the followingscheme which is based on three observations coming from the aboveresults:

[0091] Low N increases the deposition compared to high N

[0092] High L favors deposition on normal hair, low L favors depositionon damaged hair

[0093] N controls deposition more efficiently than L. High Deposition--------------------------------> Low Deposition Virgin Hair High L-LowN Low L-Low N High L-High N Low L-High N Damaged Hair Low L-Low N HighL-Low N Low L-High N High L-High N

[0094] The ensuing experiment illustrates the feasibility of thiscontrolled deposition scheme. The following shampoos were adopted fromExample 2 of U.S. Pat. No. 3,996,146, to which a solution containingLAN/0.1% OMC was added: TABLE 13 Shampoo A Shampoo B Shampoo C Shampoo D(High L- (Low L- (Low L- (High L- Low N) Low N) High N) High N)Sulfosuccinate 35.0 35.0 35.0 35.0 Betaine 16.0 16.0 16.0 16.0Nonylphenol 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 ethoxylate MERQUAT 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 100ALCOLEC 0.5 0.05 0.05 0.5 MIRANOL 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 ARLASOLVE 2.0 2.0 4.04.0 OMC 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Water 39.70 40.15 38.15 37.70

[0095] Two types of hair (normal brown and bleached) were treated withthese shampoos for 1 minute at room temperature, then rinsed with warmwater for 30 seconds and blow-dried. The treatment was repeated for atotal of 5 times. The hair was extracted with alcohol and the amount ofextracted OMC determined by UV-Vis. The results are shown below in Table14. TABLE 14 High Deposition --------------------------------> LowDeposition Shampoo A Shampoo B Shampoo C Shampoo D (High L-Low N) (LowL-Low N) (Low L-High) (High L-High N) N) Quantity OMC deposited onVirgin Hair (μg OMC/g hair) 26.26 24.4 6.87 10.35 Quantity OMC depositedon Damaged Hair (μg OMC/g hair)  0.72  0.95 0  0

[0096] These data show that the LAN system can be used to regulate theamount of water-insoluble ingredients deposited on hair of any specifictype.

[0097] It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that variousmodifications and variations can be made in the composition, deliverysystems, and methods of the invention without departing from the spiritor scope of the invention. Thus, it is intended that the presentinvention cover the modifications and variations of this inventionprovided that they come within the scope of the appended claims andtheir equivalents.

What is claimed is:
 1. A composition comprising: at least one organicphospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; at leastone amphoteric surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to orgreater than the amount of said at least one phospholipid; at least onenonionic surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greaterthan the amount of said at least one phospholipid; and at least onecationic polymer.
 2. A compositions according to claim 1 , wherein saidcomposition further comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
 3. Acomposition according to claim 1 , wherein said composition furthercomprises water.
 4. A composition according to claim 1 , wherein said atleast one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount by weight greaterthan the amount of said at least one phospholipid.
 5. A compositionaccording to claim 1 , wherein said at least one amphoteric surfactantis present in an amount by weight greater than the amount of said atleast one phospholipid.
 6. A composition according to claim 1 , whereinsaid at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers inaqueous solution is a lecithin.
 7. A composition according to claim 1 ,wherein said at least one phospholipid, said at least one amphotericsurfactant, and said at least one nonionic surfactant are present in acombined amount sufficient to allow at least one water-insolubleingredient to be incorporated into an aqueous solution.
 8. A compositionaccording to claim 7 , wherein said at least one water-insolubleingredient is selected from unneutralized and partially neutralizedwater-insoluble polymers, resins, and latexes.
 9. A compositionaccording to claim 8 , wherein said water-insoluble polymers, resins,and latexes contain at least one carboxyl moiety.
 10. A compositionaccording to claim 7 , wherein said at least one water-insolubleingredient is a lipophilic ingredient.
 11. A composition according toclaim 10 , wherein said lipophilic ingredient is a silicone, oil-solublevitamin, ceramide, natural oil, a sunscreen, or a mixture thereof.
 12. Acomposition according to claim 1 , wherein said at least one amphotericsurfactant is selected from betaines, sultaines, hydroxysultaines, alkylamphodiacetates, alkyl amphodipropionates, imidazolines, and saltsthereof.
 13. A composition according to claim 12 , wherein said at leastone amphoteric surfactant is cocamphodipropionate or cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine.
 14. A composition according to claim 1 , wherein saidat least one nonionic surfactant is formed from at least a C₈to C₂₄fatty alcohol, a C₈to C₂₄ fatty acid, or a C₈to C₂₄ glyceride.
 15. Acomposition according to claim 1 , wherein said at least one nonionicsurfactant has an HLB of at least
 10. 16. A composition according toclaim 1 , wherein said at least one cationic polymer is polyquaternium4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28,polyquaternium 32, or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
 17. Acomposition according to claim 1 , wherein said at least one organicphospholipid is present in an amount of greater than 0 to about 3% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 18. Acomposition according to claim 1 , wherein said at least one amphotericsurfactant is present in an amount of greater than 0 to about 9% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 19. Acomposition according to claim 1 , wherein said at least one nonionicsurfactant is present in an amount of greater than 0 to about 20% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 20. Acomposition according to claim 1 , wherein said at least one cationicpolymer is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5.0% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.
 21. A compositionaccording to claim 1 , wherein said at least one organic phospholipid,said at least one amphoteric surfactant, and said at least one nonionicsurfactant are present in a ratio of 1:2:2 and above by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.
 22. A composition according toclaim 8 , wherein said at least one organic phospholipid, said at leastone amphoteric surfactant, and said at least one nonionic surfactant arepresent in a ratio of 1:3:3 and above by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 23. A composition according to claim 22 ,wherein said at least one organic phospholipid, said at least oneamphoteric surfactant, and said at least one nonionic surfactant arepresent in a ratio of 1:3:4 and above by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 24. A composition according to claim 10 ,wherein said at least one organic phospholipid, said at least oneamphoteric surfactant, and said at least one nonionic surfactant arepresent in a ratio of 1:3:2 and above by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 25. A method for treating at least onekeratinous substance comprising: preparing an aqueous solutioncomprising at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayersin aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant present in anamount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of said at leastone phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amountby weight equal to or greater than the amount of said at least onephospholipid; at least one cationic polymer; and at least onewater-insoluble ingredient, wherein said at least one organicphospholipid, said at least one amphoteric surfactant, and said at leastone nonionic surfactant are present in a combined amount sufficient toallow said water-insoluble ingredient to be incorporated into saidaqueous solution; and applying said aqueous solution to said at leastone keratinous substance.
 26. A method according to claim 25 , whereinsaid at least one keratinous substance is selected from hair, skin, andeyelashes.
 27. A method according to claim 25 , wherein said treatingcomprises shampooing, conditioning, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving,relaxing, setting, moisturizing, and making-up.
 28. A delivery systemfor water-insoluble ingredients comprising: at least one organicphospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; at leastone amphoteric surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to orgreater than the amount of said at least one phospholipid; at least onenonionic surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greaterthan the amount of said at least one phospholipid; at least one cationicpolymer; at least one water-insoluble ingredient; and an aqueous phase,wherein said at least one organic phospholipid, said at least oneamphoteric surfactant, and said at least one nonionic surfactant arepresent in a combined amount sufficient to allow said at least onewater-insoluble ingredient to be incorporated into said system.
 29. Adelivery system according to claim 28 , wherein said aqueous phasefurther comprises additional ingredients selected from anionicsurfactants, organic salts, inorganic salts, proteins, hair dyes,water-soluble polymers, amino acids, quaternary ammonium compounds,complex and simple carbohydrates, preservatives, and fragrances.
 30. Adelivery system according to claim 28 , wherein said at least onewater-insoluble ingredient is selected from unneutralized and partiallyneutralized water-insoluble polymers, resins, and latexes.
 31. Adelivery system according to claim 30 , wherein said water-insolublepolymers, resins, and latexes contain at least one carboxyl moiety. 32.A delivery system according to claim 28 , wherein said at least onewater-insoluble ingredient is a lipophilic ingredient.
 33. A deliverysystem according to claim 32 , wherein said lipophilic ingredient is asilicone, oil-soluble vitamin, ceramide, natural oil, a sunscreen or amixture thereof.
 34. A delivery system according to claim 28 , whereinsaid at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers inaqueous solution is a lecithin.
 35. A delivery system according to claim28 , wherein said at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected frombetaines, sultaines, hydroxysultaines, alkyl amphodiacetates, alkylamphodipropionates, imidazolines, and salts thereof.
 36. A deliverysystem according to claim 35 , wherein said at least one amphotericsurfactant is cocamphodipropionate or cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine.37. A delivery system according to claim 28 , wherein said at least onenonionic surfactant is formed from a C₈to C₂₄ fatty alcohol, a C₈to C₂₄fatty acid, or a C₈to C₂₄ glyceride.
 38. A delivery system according toclaim 28 , wherein said at least one cationic polymer is polyquaternium4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28,polyquaternium 32, or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
 39. Adelivery system according to claim 28 , wherein said at least oneorganic phospholipid is present in an amount of greater than 0 to about3% by weight relative to the total weight of the combination of said atleast one organic phospholipid, said at least one amphoteric surfactant,and said at least one nonionic surfactant.
 40. A delivery systemaccording to claim 28 , wherein said at least one amphoteric surfactantis present in an amount of greater than 0 to about 9% by weight relativeto the total weight of the combination of said at least one organicphospholipid, said at least one amphoteric surfactant, and said at leastone nonionic surfactant.
 41. A delivery system according to claim 28 ,wherein said at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ofgreater than 0 to about 20% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe combination of said at least one organic phospholipid, said at leastone amphoteric surfactant, and said at least one nonionic surfactant.42. A delivery system according to claim 28 , wherein said at least oneorganic phospholipid, said at least one amphoteric surfactant, and saidat least one nonionic surfactant are present in a ratio of 1:2:2 andabove by weight relative to the total weight of the combination of saidat least one organic phospholipid, said at least one amphotericsurfactant, and said at least one nonionic surfactant.
 43. A deliverysystem according to claim 29 , wherein said at least one organicphospholipid, said at least one amphoteric surfactant, and said at leastone nonionic surfactant are present in a ratio of 1:3:3 and above byweight relative to the total weight of the combination of said at leastone organic phospholipid, said at least one amphoteric surfactant, andsaid at least one nonionic surfactant.
 44. A delivery system accordingto claim 43 , wherein said at least one organic phospholipid, said atleast one amphoteric surfactant, and said at least one nonionicsurfactant are present in a ratio of 1:3:4 and above by weight relativeto the total weight of the combination of said at least one organicphospholipid, said at least one amphoteric surfactant, and said at leastone nonionic surfactant.
 45. A delivery system according to claim 32 ,wherein said at least one organic phospholipid, said at least oneamphoteric surfactant, and said at least one nonionic surfactant arepresent in a ratio of 1:3:2 by weight and above relative to the totalweight of the combination of said at least one organic phospholipid,said at least one amphoteric surfactant, and said at least one nonionicsurfactant.
 46. A delivery system according to claim 28 , wherein saidat least one organic phospholipid is a lecithin, said at least oneamphoteric surfactant is disodium cocamphodipropionate, said at leastone nonionic surfactant is selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-20 and Oleth-10,and said cationic polymer is selected from polyquaternium 10, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and polyquaternium
 6. 47. A deliverysystem according to claim 28 , wherein said system is in the form of ashampoo, a conditioner, a deep treatment for hair, a body wash, a bathgel, a bath oil, a hair dyeing composition, a permanent waveformulation, a make-up composition, a skin cream, or a lotion.
 48. Amethod for controlling the deposition of a water-insoluble ingredient onat least one keratinous substance, said method comprising: preparing anaqueous solution comprising at least one organic phospholipid capable offorming bilayers in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactantpresent in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount ofsaid at least one phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant presentin an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of said atleast one phospholipid; and at least one water-insoluble ingredient,wherein said at least one organic phospholipid, said at least oneamphoteric surfactant, and said at least one nonionic surfactant arepresent in a combined amount sufficient to allow said water-insolubleingredient to be incorporated into said aqueous solution; applying saidaqueous solution to said at least one keratinous substance; andcontrolling the amount of deposition of said water-insoluble ingredienton said at least one keratinous substance by adjusting the amount ofsaid at least one organic phospholipid in said aqueous solution.
 49. Amethod according to claim 48 , wherein said aqueous solution furthercomprises at least one cationic polymer.
 50. A method for controllingthe deposition of a water-insoluble ingredient on at least onekeratinous substance, said method comprising: preparing an aqueoussolution comprising at least one organic phospholipid capable of formingbilayers in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant presentin an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of said atleast one phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant present in anamount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of said at leastone phospholipid; and at least one water-insoluble ingredient, whereinsaid at least one organic phospholipid, said at least one amphotericsurfactant, and said at least one nonionic surfactant are present in acombined amount sufficient to allow said water-insoluble ingredient tobe incorporated into said aqueous solution; applying said aqueoussolution to said at least one keratinous substance; and controlling theamount of deposition of said water-insoluble ingredient on said at leastone keratinous substance by adjusting the amount of said at least onenonionic surfactant in said aqueous solution.
 51. A method according toclaim 50 , wherein said aqueous solution further comprises at least onecationic polymer.
 52. A method for controlling the deposition of awater-insoluble ingredient on at least one keratinous substance, saidmethod comprising: preparing an aqueous solution comprising at least oneorganic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; atleast one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount by weight equal toor greater than the amount of said at least one phospholipid; at leastone nonionic surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to orgreater than the amount of said at least one phospholipid; and at leastone water-insoluble ingredient, wherein said at least one organicphospholipid, said at least one amphoteric surfactant, and said at leastone nonionic surfactant are present in a combined amount sufficient toallow said water-insoluble ingredient to be incorporated into saidaqueous solution; applying said aqueous solution to said at least onekeratinous substance; and controlling the amount of deposition of saidwater-insoluble ingredient on said at least one keratinous substance byadjusting the amount of said at least one organic phospholipid and theamount of said at least one nonionic surfactant in said aqueoussolution.
 53. A method according to claim 52 , wherein said aqueoussolution further comprises at least one cationic polymer.